New York Fashion Week. It’s chaotic. It’s unpredictable. It’s tiring. And yet, we can never get enough of it.
Despite the subtleties listed above, fashion fans all over the world are still involved in a love-hate relationship with this much anticipated event because of its exhilarating and vibrant atmosphere. For many, NYFW is like a dream come true since they can feel a strong sense of harmony among the fashion crowd. Fashion designers are able to share their visions with bloggers, style devotees, editors, and other industry insiders who embrace their ideas wholeheartedly. Whether you are actually in the city or simply viewing the latest collection online, everyone is welcome to enjoy the beauty and uniqueness of each individual runway show.
There were plenty of notable NYFW Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear Collections, such as Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs, Hood By Air, and Proenza Schouler. But there just isn’t enough time in the world to go over what I like or don’t like about them all.
Shows That Shined
Rodarte
Deciding to take an unexpected route this season, Rodarte successfully blurred the line between 1970s Glam Rock and the romantic Victorian era. There were sheer blouses, coats, and scarves embellished with metallic, glitter, and sequins, that directly paid homage to the Glam Rock era. There were also pieces that were intricately beaded by hand and high-waisted velvet trousers that have come back into style due to the current 1970s redux. On the other hand, Rodarte’s designers, sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy, have been quoted saying that this specific collection was inspired by Romantic poetry, which can be clearly detected with just one look at the clothes. The 19th century is referenced with silhouettes composed of long loosely fitted shapes lined with lace. The beautiful beading, embroidery, and exquisite fringe also shows how the duo are masters of accurately conveying feeling through a visual medium, which is similar to what Romantic poetry tries to achieves except with words. The shoes in this show included plenty of silver and gold heels and ankle booties, which are predicted to be a major spring trend.
Givenchy
Givenchy made history when it finally left Paris Fashion Week to display a monumental show with numerous A-list guests in New York City. That’s right; Spring ‘16 is the first time in 63 years that Givenchy has ever held a show at NYFW! Better yet, the French fashion house topped this pleasant surprise by making 820 free tickets available to the New York public on a first-come, first-served basis to enjoy the designs along with the bloggers, industry regulars, and celebrities that attended. Sheer material abounded tuxedo jackets, and lace creations sent down the catwalk that could be described as classic. The gowns and coats all stayed within the realm of black, cream, and white shades, and these extreme color opposites somewhere found a way to balance each other out. The meticulously trimmed silk slips that were paired with wide legged pants for a timeless look were also a nice touch. However, it was the “makeup” that left me stunned and speechless, but in a good way. The face jewelry or embellishments were unique and paid great attention to detail. Not only did they enhance the element of drama in the clothes, but they also can be considered individual pieces of artwork.
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Alexander Wang
Extravagance is a vital component of Alexander Wang’s runway shows. While his tendency to gravitate toward darker color palettes and his inclination toward the streetwear movement aren’t necessarily new, we need to understand that the high-status designer and former Balenciaga creative director is celebrating ten years of his namesake label by turning all of his attention to branding. Silk baller vests, leather jackets with fringes, and grunge-inspired slip dresses all fall into Wang’s intention of “being modern” by noticing what really surrounds you and what’s in front of your very eyes each day. He was inspired by mundane things and normal activities because he thought that by rejecting innovation and envisioning clothes, we arrive at a point where ideas about “being modern” are fully realized. This interesting perspective is what allowed Alexander Wang to earn all his achievements in the fashion industry today. In the end, this runway show can be viewed as a declaration of his plans as a designer both in the present and in the future.
Runners-Up
Carolina Herrera
Carolina Herrera’s SS16 runway show was truly magnificent. For her spring collection, Herrera claimed that she was in “a rose period,” recognized through her girly and pastel creations. Her gorgeous eveningwear allowed her to delve into subjects like transparency, optimism, and delicacy. The collection, which had a refreshing and updated feel to it, includes the use of a “techno fabric” that is similar to a much lighter version of scuba fabric. This resulted in an ultramodern outcome with see-through mesh in between and sheer cutouts. Therefore, the dresses appeared flowy and sporty. Organza that was in several shades of blush was cropped at the thigh, but the best part about this transparency is that it is used in moderation. Carolina Herrera also made more edgier ensembles than she usually opts for, which could possibly mean that she is now targeting a younger audience. For many of her looks, hems were high and shoulders were exposed, which is not exactly her signature style. Yet there were still feather decorations and silver and flower-shaped beading to satisfy her long-term fan base.
Marchesa
When asked what the idea behind the spring 2016 lineup for Marchesa was, Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig answered, “A botanical menagerie of caged birds”. This proved to be true since the runway show introduced lightweight styles characterized by pastel green, pink, and yellow hues, but there was an underlying mystery to the collection that complemented the soft color palette. From the very moment the show opened, the references to the birdcage theme were visible. Feathers were applied carefully and were strategically wrapped over the neckline of dramatic ball gowns or were the accessories to strapless black corsets, and tiered beaded diamond net lace skirts were covered in full feather detailing. Three-dimensional embroidery of bird and petal patterns drew attention to movement and texture. My personal favorite pieces were the layered skirts of Grecian tulle dip-dyed by hand in an ombré of pastels. However, I must admit that some of the best pieces were those that combined the two concepts of light and dark by smoothly weaving them together.
The Last Noteworthy Runway Show Is…
Yeezy Season 2.
This is one of the fashion shows that almost missed the mark for me. Inarguably, Yeezy Season 2 became a highly anticipated collection just moments after Kanye West announced it as a last-minute event, and the attention it received is probably the most noteworthy part of this entire collection. Once again, there was a star-studded front row that included Anna Wintour from Vogue, Givenchy's Riccardo Tisci, Lorde, Kourtney and Khloé Kardashian, and Debbie Harry. When the presentation started, models, many of which did not have the typical high fashion proportions like last season, lined up in rows and walked slowly. I appreciated the diversity of the models, the pacing as they walked the catwalk, and the improved lighting that showed the clothes more clearly. However, my problem with this collection is that is it virtually identical to Season One. The same palette and overall aesthetic is used, which can be good thing if there are minor differences in design. Unfortunately, this wasn’t exactly the case here as the only difference was in color. There were nude bodysuits, and faded army green, tan, olive, and even pink tones. Baggy sweatpants, crew-neck sweatshirts, kimono-style coats, and cargo jackets with distressed fabrics and unfinished hemlines were what this lineup was mostly made up of. Outfits were often mixed and match with neutral-colored Sorel-style duck boots.
New York Fashion Week is here to stay and its impact can be felt not only nationwide, but also all over the world. With its stylish crop of fans seeming to grow each year, hopefully fashion designers, brands, and houses will follow in the footsteps of Givenchy and allow for more public accessibility during NYFW. What were your favorite or least favorite collections from the NYFW Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear Collections? I’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments below, and I’ll talk to you soon!